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I finally left Mauritius last June, tired of the rising violence and daily corruption and the stress of driving around the island: last year there were 20,000 road accidents, which left 151 people dead.

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Most of the violence is by Mauritians against fellow Mauritians, but some of it is directed against tourists.

Most of the violence is connected with petty crimes, but there was one rape last year. In September last year, seven-year-old Samuella Martin was found burnt alive in the sugar cane fields, having been raped and set alight by her uncle.

When I first visited the island in 1994 it took almost four hours to drive the 40 miles from the north of the island to the south because the roads were so bad.

There was a solitary fast food restaurant on the island, a Pizza Hut in the capital Port Louis.

Tourists visiting the island will mostly never see the real Mauritius.

Many will stay in one of the island's 40 or more luxury hotels and never leave the hotel's grounds, preferring to just laze on the beach, swim in the ocean, play golf, enjoy the numerous watersports on offer, or just relax in the spa.

In the 42 years since independence, the island has effectively been ruled by two family dynasties, the Ramgoolams and the Jugnauths.

Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam, known as the "father of Mauritian independence", was the island's first prime minister, from 1968 to 1982, and his son Navin is in the second of his two terms as premier.

But my girlfriend and I could walk through the unlit streets of Grand Baie, then the main tourist town, at midnight without any fear of being attacked, except maybe by one of the thousands of wild dogs that roamed the island.

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