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The district is thronged with tourists and far too many T-shirt shops, but no matter; on the Banys Nous, we find Heritage, the town's best vintage-clothing store, where a mannequin clad in Yves Saint Laurent couture stands just inside the door and a slubby silk 1950's jacket bears a label from Pertegaz, a famous mid-20th-century Spanish fashion house.The Barri Gòtic's mysterious alleyways seduce me so thoroughly that I would probably be content to spend the entire weekend under its arches, but K. She's anxious to explore the retail equivalent of the Omm—places that reflect Barcelona's much-vaunted vibrant design sense and justify the town's reputation as a hot dining, clubbing, and—not least—shopping destination.

It dawns on us that we have not yet been inside a single Antoni Gaudí edifice, so the next morning we tour two astonishing examples, both originally intended as residential buildings— La Pedrera and Casa Battló—by the master of Spanish Art Nouveau, conveniently located near our hotel (and no, we didn't just go to the gift shops).

These odd creations, with their sinuous walls and dripping concrete, are so riveting that we consider spending the entire day visiting museums.

Thrilled not to have to waste four precious hours snacking and sleeping, we fairly skip over to the hushed Santa Eulalia, which has been accoutring the local haute bourgeoisie since 1843.

A mammoth curved wooden staircase leads to international high-end labels—Lanvin, Marc Jacobs—along with a cache of those coveted fringed Balenciaga bags.

This plan, however, dissolves as soon as we dip into the spectacularly designed Carolina Herrera store.

Carolina may be Venezuelan, but her daughter is married to the dashing Spanish former bullfighter Miguel Báez, and her shop, with a stock of ruffly dresses and city sneakers embellished with the CH logo, is a big hit with the locals.

nor I speak.) Our time-management skills improving, we linger sufficiently at the market to hit the Barri Gòtic just as the gates are going up.

We are fascinated by Cereria Subirà, a centuries-old candle store in business at this location since 1761, with its tapers shaped like mountains, like mushrooms, like Mickey Mouse.

is audibly longing for a horn-shaped coral Victorian pendant.

(I bargain in French—without enormous success, I might add—since Catalan is as close to that language as it is to Spanish, which neither K.

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